Yesterday we toured a couple of the main palaces of Seoul, Changdeokgung and Gyeongbokgung in the north of the city. We were definately 'on planet' (Lonely Planet that is) as we decided to do one of their walking tours as well.
First we spent a happy couple of hours being herded round a huge compound of impressive and prettily painted buildings with an assortment of other humanity, duely admiring all the venerable old buildings, which have only been burnt to the ground about 41 times, the last time being approximately yesterday. I did enjoy it and am not half so cynical as I affect, but I do dislike guided tours. It was our only option for seeing the place however.
The gardens were interesting, but Korean style is very different to European and takes a bit of getting used to. Koreans don't use earth, grass or underplanting. So, once you remember the stuff between the trees is not 'boring dust' but a pure backdrop of white grit to enhance a meditative effect, and the square pond stuck in the middle of nothing in particular is designed to reflect the harmony of the natural surroundings, then you're pretty much there. Western eyes need to work a bit harder to appreciate what is there, as opposed to missing what isn't, as they are not as obviously 'pretty' with flowers, at least not at this time of year. I was amused to see their iris, paeony and hostas look every bit as tatty this time of year as I am sure mine do at home.
We walked to the next palace, Gyeongbokgong, which was immense. There was some some sort of archery show going on in the front courtyard, but to be honest, no one was doing anything when we got there, so we wandered on. The main courtyard was a bit Forbidden Palace stylee, with a big throne hall at the back and stone markers where courtiers of different ranks would have lined up. One of the most impressive things were the colonnades at the sides, which were 2 kan (the distance between pillars and standard unit of ancient Korean architecture, about 12 feet) deep and maybe a hundred yards long. It was easy to imagine them bustling with horses, guards, servants, courtiers and general hangers-on.
We explored little courtyards and innumerable detached wooden buildings with curved tiles roofs, quite different to European style palaces. I think as Korea is so hot in the summer, each building is built to catch the slightest of breezes with wide door/windows making up most of each long side, giving a lovely sense of openness and glimpses the distant mountains. We didn't go in the next-door Korean Folk museum, but had a great few minutes exploring the outdoor exhibition of traditional buildings and rude shamanic stone carvings.
Although it was getting on we decided to go on the LP walk, and headed off up the road. Although not particularly special, we did find our way to the main art gallery district of Seoul, oozing money and jostling with flouncy boutiques and restaurants. We puttered up the hill to an area described as having traditional style houses, and sure enough, there was a small area of swooping rooftops and tiny enclosed courtyards staggering down the hillside.
I was taking a picute of a lovely house with bamboo outside when an expensively dressed lady passed me and said to come down the road a little. Her neighbours were preparing for a party and had decorated the house, so she kindly asked if I could go in an take some photos. The owners were busy with preparing for the party (at least watching over the caterers) but their friend from New York showed us around.
It was a traditional Korean house, mainly consisting of a series of 6 open rooms in a line ended with two short 'wings' - one the dining room, and one the garden room. All were open to the deep veranda and candlelit courtyard. The walls and roofbeams were made of beautiful round timbers, all polished to a rich amber, and the rooms were laid out similar to Japanese style, without any tall furniture, just low tables and cushions, except for the European style kitchen and dining rooms. The view was lovely over the traditional roofs to the city beyond. There was a lower floor, with the 3rd bedroom and bathroom, laundry and large living room with a huge TV/entertainment centre discreetly hidden behind large doors.
Although traditional style, I have no idea how old the house was as it all looked recently refurbished to a very high standard (think glossy magazine), but as there seems to be a lack of everyday clutter, I asked if it was where the family lived. Oh, no, came the reply, this is just their guest house, they live in a condo in the city centre, it's more convenient.
After departing with a bottle of Perrier each, we made sure our host, Linda, could get back into her appartment, due to a funny locking system, and reassured, headed to one of the nearby Italian restaurants for Risotto al' Funghi.
Back at Linda's after retiring to bed we discovered that one of the TV channels was showing both parts of the scary Dr Who episode where there is a child with a gas mask on who keeps says 'Are you my mummy?" Great!
