Day 12 without tobacco. No one has died as a consequence, and I even seem to have regained some of my sense of humour, although I have started dreaming about smoking. Rolling papers prancing around in ever-increasing numbers a la Fantasia. I never knew before that 'there was an old lady who lived in a pipe'. Or that log cabins could be made out of giant cigars. That's what comes from staying on what is supposed to be one of 5 shamanic energy centres across the world, and contemplating in front of the Shaman Rocks (see piccys).
Actually Olkhon Island is incredible. I know none of you will believe me, because I'm so fickle and say this every time, but this place really has been the highlight of the trip so far. Its difficult to describe why - all I can do is to urge you to go if ever there is a chance. One particularly odd experience for me was to stand at the shores of this vast lake (636km) as if it were a sea, but see no tide and smell no salty tang in the air. The water is so clear they reckon in parts you can see 40m down; this wasn't the case around the island becasue of some pollution from the human population, but nonetheless it was incredibly pure stuff.
Unlike the beer. I thought that the night before we were due to go horse-riding. it would be a good idea to sink a vat of some 8% Russian beer while playing Munchkin with our new-found Irish friends until the early hours. Predictable results in that I had to quit horse-riding early as I was about to pas out with the dizzyness of it all. Disgraceful behaviour and it did not get me into anyone's good books.
Finally it seems that I am destined for media stardom, having been discovered at last! A telly crew turned up on the island and after a quick chat had miked me up faster than you can say 'the camera loves you, dahling'. No idea what I said due to the the afore-mentioned demon brew but I am assured it was all highly entertaing stuff. They certainly kept me talking for an uncomfortably long time, and said they would email me when the broadcast is due. I shall let you know as there will also be a web-cast! I really must have a word with wardrobe though...