In the UK I got a definate feeling that Japanese gardening is all refined and restrained topiary and bonsai with nary a flower to be seen. At least on Hokkaido I can say, well, shout: THIS ISN'T TRUE!
There are more flowers here the whole of Russia, it seems. (Russia, to be fair, has the monoploy on veg.) Here, not only are there fields of stupendous colour, as in the photos of Furano, but every outdoor space that has a sniff of soil has a complement of vulgar colour combinations, often cartoon pink cosmos with minature-sun marigolds and pajama-striped petunias. There are exquisitely formed trees in gardens, with arched and rounded boughs, and cushions of green foam on the ends, like oh-so-elegant hatracks. But you can be sure that around their bases there is a riot of lilies and boisterous bedding totally removed from the traditional view of the traditional Japanese garden.
If there is a couple of inches of space in front of a townhouse, there will be pots of oleander, crevices of campanulas, staked and precious oriental and turkscap lilies, ubiquitous cosmos, and friendly sunflowers bowing to the street.
The countryside up to Asahi-dake was a beautiful late season show of gold Rudbeckias, frothy knotweed and delicate tall grasses, showing to perfection how these three work together against a backdrop of green bamboo and mountains. I am getting so much planting inspiration from seeing familiar plants in their native environments, combinations that just work, so effortlessly and elegantly, it seems, hmmm, natural.
So far I have been thwarted in my plans to photograph many of these delights, but I am sure as I travel I will manage to record some for your edification.
